Bordeaux, France, is a destination where the art of living is celebrated through exquisite wines, storied history and timeless romance.
My husband, Asher, and I spent two weeks in France, exploring Paris, Bordeaux, the South of France and the French Riviera. For this leg of our journey, we embarked on an adventure from Paris to the wine capital of the world, and the experience was nothing short of extraordinary.
Out of all the places we visited in France, the Bordeaux region might just be my favorite (or perhaps it’s the South of France—I can’t decide).
From the magical grounds of Château Léognan to the historic streets of Saint-Émilion, here’s my Bordeaux, France travel guide.
Arriving in Bordeaux
Our journey began with a scenic train ride from Paris to Bordeaux, a seamless transition into the heart of wine country. Upon arrival, we secured a rental car at the Bordeaux train station.
Much to Asher’s delight, we *had* to accept a BMW convertible, since it was their only automatic car left. I was terrified for Asher to drive a stick through those tiny village streets (even if he felt confident in his abilities).
So off we went to explore France in our boujee set of wheels—me with my invisible brake and Asher with a huge smile on his face.
A Stay at Château Léognan
Château Léognan was one of the highlights of our trip for me. Once a quaint bed and breakfast (you know I LOVE that fun fact), this 5-star boutique hotel in the Pessac-Léognan appellation, just 30 minutes from Bordeaux, blends historic grandeur with modern refinement. Set on 173 acres, the estate is a testament to Bordeaux’s winemaking legacy.
In our room, we were welcomed with a bottle of the château’s robust red wine and canelés, the region’s signature pastry. We wandered the estate’s protected forests and its vineyards, where the clay-limestone soil yields exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot.
Nestled in a corner of the forest, their spa offers a luxurious escape with a hammam, sauna, and Nordic bath. My favorite view was just outside of the château, where the horses graze in the pasture.
The château’s history is as captivating as its grounds. Dating back to the 17th century, when Saint-Jean monks tended its vines, the estate later flourished under Mathieu Seurin, a prosperous shipowner, and his wife, Emma. They built the château in the 19th century, and after Mathieu’s passing, Emma honored him with the Saint-Mathieu chapel. Today, Philippe and Chantal Miecaze, who purchased the estate in 2007, have elevated Château Léognan into a destination for wine tourism.
The château’s logo comes from artwork found on the chapel’s intricate tiles. Within the chapel, a consecrated stone allows locals to take communion. The estate is a stop on the Camino de Santiago, a historic pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, traveled by pilgrims for centuries in pursuit of spiritual enrichment.
Breakfast at the Château
Mornings at Château Léognan were a highlight, with a buffet served in the main area, adorned with vibrant French decor—ornate tiles, bold hues, and sparkling chandeliers. The spread featured classic French pastries, artisanal cheeses, cured meats, yogurt, granola, fresh juices, coffee, and homemade jams, with the option to order eggs, omelets, or espresso drinks. I ate my weight’s worth in cheese!
Dining at Le Manège
The château’s restaurant, Le Manège, offered a unique dining experience. We ate outside under the canopy, and in true French fashion, the meal unfolded at a leisurely pace, allowing us to savor each course and each other’s company. While the food was delicious, the gelato may have been the best we’ve ever had. Ever.
A Wine Tour with Michelle
My favorite part of our stay was a wine tour and tasting led by Michelle, whose expertise shed light on the rich winemaking heritage of Pessac-Léognan and the Bordeaux region. We sampled three of the château’s wines, each a testament to the region’s unique terroir. To the French, wine is more than a drink—it embodies community, creativity, rich culture, passion, and economic vitality.
Discovering Bordeaux City
We spent a full day of our trip exploring Bordeaux City, beginning our day at Books and Coffee, a cozy coffee and breakfast joint. We strolled through the Chartrons neighborhood, pausing to admire the antique treasures along Rue Notre Dame—a must if you’re on the market for French heirlooms.
We perused the shops along the Rue St. Catherine, one of Europe’s longest pedestrian streets, stopping at one of my favorites, Lolita No.5. If you’re in Bordeaux, you can’t miss the spiral wine shop, L’Intendant. We marveled at their selection before crossing to Le Bar à Vin, featured in Condé Nast Traveler, where we paired Malbec with local chocolates.
Asher and I wandered the city for hours, making stops at the Miroir d’Eau, the world’s largest reflecting pool, set before La Place de la Bourse, and Saint-André Cathedral in all its Gothic splendor.
When researching Bordeaux before our trip, I noticed that everyone recommended visiting Cité du Vin, the city’s renowned wine museum. There, we explored the global story of wine, from terroir to sensory experience, and concluded our venture by tasting a crisp Alsace white and taking in a rooftop view of the city.
If you’re visiting Bordeaux, I highly recommend making a dinner reservation, as restaurants fill up quickly. After searching for a spot, we wound up at Chez Les Ploucs, which reminded me of a French Cracker Barrel in the best way. We indulged in duck confit while we were serenaded by a local musician playing Les Champs-Elysées. We stopped by La Maison du Glacier to end our day with—you guessed it—gelato.
Saint-Émilion: The Best of Bordeaux
Apart from our stay at Château Léognan, our visit to Saint-Émilion, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was the highlight of our trip. To get there, we drove through the Libournais region with the convertible top down, surrounded by vineyards as far as the eye can see.
The medieval village, named after the 8th-century monk Émilion, is renowned for its winemaking legacy and striking architecture, including a monolithic church carved from a single rock.
We sipped lattes under the vines at the quaint Restaurant Salon de Thé and explored the town’s shops and streets lined with innumerable wine boutiques.
Asher and I frequented Amelie’s French Bakery in Charlotte, North Carolina, when we were dating, so we went on a mission to find the birthplace of the macaron. When you picture macarons, you likely think of the pastel cookies sold at Ladurée or Pierre Hermé, but in Saint-Émilion, these cookies give a nod to their simple heritage, crafted with almonds, egg whites and sugar, and served on a paper sheet. Locals claim Nadia Fermigier holds the sole authentic recipe, dating back to 1620.
We celebrated our day in Saint-Émilion with dinner at Ô 3 Fontaines, where we paired Bordeaux wine with creamy Camembert rôti. Cheese for dinner? When in France! We loved the atmosphere at this restaurant and had the best time bantering with the waiter. It made for the perfect ending to our time in Saint-Émilion.
Bordeaux and Beyond
Bordeaux feels like an ode to the French art of living. From the historic villages to the wine tourism, it’s everything I imagined it would be and then some. The terroir of this region produces more than world-class wines—it fosters community, sparks creativity, and allows one to romanticize even the most mundane parts of life.
Did you like my Bordeaux, France travel guide? Check out my Paris Travel Guide for more recommendations and follow along to see where we’ll be next.
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