Bonjour, friends! I’m excited to share my French Riviera travel guide, the final chapter of our two-week excursion in France, with you all.
Asher and I recently journeyed from Paris to the Bordeaux region, the South of France, and the French Riviera. After our sojourn in Provence—detailed in my South of France travel guide—we continued our holiday along France’s legendary stretch of coastline.
This French Riviera Travel Guide captures our two full days along the stunning Côte d’Azur, including a stay at a boutique hotel, explorations of hilltop villages, and a day visiting three countries.
The Road to the Riviera: Grimaud and Saint-Tropez
On the way from Provence to our final destination in Cagnes-sur-Mer, we made stops at two places on our must-visit list, Grimaud and Saint-Tropez, both distinct and beautiful in their own way.
Grimaud: This enchanting medieval village, perched atop a hill, welcomed us with its cobbled streets and historic architecture. We climbed the 11th-century castle ruins to see the panoramic vistas of olive groves and the Gulf of Saint-Tropez. We loved experiencing local life in Grimaud through the shops, bakeries and galleries. This was easily one of the most beautiful villages we visited.
Saint-Tropez: Saint-Tropez, even through throngs of tourists, is the epitome of jet-set glamour. The harbor brimmed with superyachts, while the streets teemed with designer and luxury brand stores, including a Louis Vuitton café boasting its very own Michelin star. We couldn’t help but pause at Café de l’Art to people-watch over a cappuccino. And we highly recommend savoring gelato at the bustling Barbarac while admiring the harbor’s plein-air artists painting the picturesque view of the boats.
Where to Stay: Château le Cagnard, Cagnes-sur-Mer
Nestled dramatically on the ramparts of the medieval Haut-de-Cagnes village, Château le Cagnard is the place for those seeking historic grandeur with modern refinement. This 4-star boutique hotel, housed in a 13th-century fortress, served as our home base for exploring the French Riviera. Narrow roads demand parking at the base and taking a shuttle ride (provided only on arrival and departure) to the hotel, leaving guests to navigate the hilly paths on foot. This hotel was not as accessible as others during our time in France.
I loved that our spacious suite came with a private terrace overlooking the Ligurian Sea and the Alpes-Maritimes mountains. Breakfast was my favorite part of our stay, of course. Our mornings began on the restaurant’s panoramic balcony with a traditional continental spread—baguettes, artisanal cheeses, and charcuterie—supplemented by à la carte menu items, such as eggs, bacon, yogurt and espresso beverages, to name a few.
During our first evening at the hotel, we ventured to the family-run Chez David for a feast of hearty beef stew with gnocchi, entrecôte, ratatouille, and a lavender-infused crème brûlée. We loved both the people and the food at this restaurant and would return in a heartbeat.
The Coast: Nice, Villefranche-sur-Mer, and Éze
We went straight to the coast for our first full day, exploring the best of the Côte d’Azur.
Nice: We roamed the Vieux Nice quarter’s pastel-hued alleys before visiting the Cours Saleya marché, where we purchased artworks depicting the French Riviera and the Provençal lavender fields from local artists. Castle Hill boasts the best views of Nice, but since it was closed during our visit, we took in the views along the Promenade des Anglais.
Villefranche-sur-Mer: This gem of the French Riviera, founded in 1295, now captivates visitors with its enchanting old town, full of narrow, candy-colored streets and charming cafes. We paused at Papillon for a refreshing Aperol Spritz and to give our legs a break—we could wander the streets of Villegranche-sur-Mer for hours.
Éze: For Asher, the highlight of our trip was Éze. We ascended to Vieux ÉEze, the 14th-century citadel planted 1,400 feet above the sea, where the Exotic Garden’s cacti and sculptures—created by Jean Gastaud in the 1940s—framed views of the Mediterranean. As a plant enthusiast, Asher was in heaven among the Mediterranean garden and birds of paradise. Even I, a plant killer, thought it was breathtaking.
Three Countries in a Day: Monaco, France, and Italy
For this part of my French Riviera Travel Guide, we’re jumping borders to spend a whirlwind day in three countries—France, Monaco, and Italy—the adventure of a lifetime!
Monte Carlo, Monaco: After a breakfast by the sea at Château le Cagnard, we hopped in the car to drive to our first destination of the day—Monaco. We began our day exploring Monte Carlo’s produce marché before climbing our way to Monaco City, where the Prince’s Palace, built in 1191, overlooks the harbor. Back in Monte Carlo, we strolled the yacht-lined docks, googling billionaire owners, before taking in the view from the pier by the yacht club. Our favorite part of Monaco was tracing the Formula 1 circuit, where we drove the BMW convertible along the track while jamming to “Gasoline” from the F1 movie soundtrack. Did we circle it twice? Of course we did!
Menton, France: Known as the “Pearl of France,” with its citrus-hued villas and lemon groves, Menton, France, might just be the most picturesque town along the French Riviera. We savored homemade gelato at Demontis Gelateria Artigianale—pistachio and chocolate, always—before making our way along the windy beach to the pier for postcard views.
Bordighera, Italy: Next stop—Italy! We went to Italy for our honeymoon six years ago and have been dreaming of an Italian vacation ever since. This time, we drove through the bustling Ventimiglia to get to a quieter Bordighera. We lingered by the ocean at Osteria i Fra i for Aperol Spritzes and a board of salami, cheese, peanuts, bread, chips and salsa—Italian hospitality at its finest. I could watch the waves and snack there all day long! For dinner, we walked a few steps over to Ristorante Storie di Mare, where we indulged in seafood and handmade gnocchi, a sublime Italian ending to our day of adventure.
I hope my French Riviera Travel Guide inspires your own holiday, where every cobblestone street and pastel-hued townscape invites you to slow down and take in the beauty around you. Au revoir for now!
Looking for more France travel guides? Check out my travel guide to the Bordeaux region.
Leave a Reply